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I would love San Francisco even if the fabulous firstborn son Ted did not live here. It’s always beautiful, always its unique self, and always full of surprises.

The first big surprise this visit was the Walt Disney Family Museum in the Presidio, an army fort that dates back to 1776 and is now a national park. (But a national park with businesses and housing: Google it.)

The new museum chronicles Walt Disney’s life via a dazzling march of artifacts, including a model of Disneyland, Mickey Mouse Club clips, and all 32 Oscars (including one  “Oscar” with seven mini-Oscars attached, for Snow White). Animation and art are all done up in faultless Disney presentation style. It’s such a dense collection that we were tired before we were done.

In between Asian meals, (Ted knows a million such eateries: Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, Cambodian, Japanese — you name it) we managed to pop over to the de Young Museum to see the new Bulgari jewelry exhibition, sponsored by Maserati. May I just say “Liz Taylor collection”? Now you have the picture.

Sometimes in our most random, unplanned adventures, Tom and I have amazing luck. That happened twice on Monday. First we boarded a streetcar that happened to be San Francisco’s very first city-owned car from 1912, appropriately named MUNI 1. It had been retired and revamped and revived and put back to work many times, and was still looking good 101 years later.

MUNI 1 also brought us efficiently to Fisherman’s Wharf, where we wandered around the back of Pier 39 only to stumble upon — this is amazing — the final leg of America’s Cup race number 16, with the US clearly en route to victory. We could not have had a better view if we had planned and paid for it.

I don’t think I’ve ever had a bad time in San Francisco, but I’m about to leave my heart here once again. On Saturday, it’s on to Mexico!

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