“Come on, Louise. It’s 4:15. The place is closed.” I get impatient when I’m tired, and we were visiting Figueres (home of the Teatro-Museo Dalí, which I’ve described earlier in this blog) for the second time since we began our travels – not to see the Dali museum again, but just to visit Figueres on a sunny day in Spain.
But it was 4:15. The sign on the door said the museum would open at 4:00. I’d been on my feet since 10:00 that morning and I wanted – needed – a cerveza grande. Figueres is charming, but charm has its limits, like watching six hours of Audrey Hepburn movies.
“Just ten more minutes. The sign says 4:00, but that’s Spanish time.”
Louise is such an optimist. But she’s right: Spanish time can be somewhat vague. Four o’clock could mean anything between 4:00 and 5:00. You just have to adapt.
Just then, a peculiar little electric car slithered up to the curb. A man with an arm in a cast emerged from the passenger’s side and began instructing the woman driver on the finer points of parallel parking. There was plaster-encased gesticulating and many cacophonous Catalan words. The car silently crawled up the curb, covered half the sidewalk, and stopped. The woman got out, apparently proud of her parking job (or, perhaps, proud of the consternation her parking job provoked in the man) and fetched a key from her purse to unlock the museum.
Thus was our introduction to Pere Padrosa, his wife Margarida Pierre, and their eccentric Museu de la Técnica: a collection of máquinas from around the world, spanning two centuries. Margarida apologized for making us wait (they finished lunch “a bit later than usual”), took our €2 admission fee, then proceeded to conduct a personal, two-hour tour of the museum – just Louise, Sra. Margarida, and me.
A thousand sewing machines, a million typewriters, Vespas, clocks, adding machines – I said “collection” earlier and that’s the right word: Sr. Padrosa began collecting typewriters almost forty years ago and he’s still at it, although his interest now is electric fans. The Museu de la Técnica really isn’t a museum at all: it’s more like Grandpa’s attic, if Grandpa collected really good stuff, displayed it with elegance and charm, and the stuff in the attic required three stories.
And so, here on the blog, I publicly apologize to Louise for my impatience and intolerance of Spanish time. Had we returned to the train station when I wanted to we would have missed one of the most curious, beguiling, and personal events of our entire Spanish adventure. Sra. Margarida was a delight (the entire tour was conducted in French, as that was the language Louise and Margarida best had in common) and that mechanical universe had me captivated from the first step through the door.
We left at 6:00 (dodging the electric car still occupying the sidewalk) having hijacked two-thirds of the museum’s 4:00 to 7:00 evening hours. My eyes are still glazed over with fascination.
The Museu de la Tècnica de l’Empordà is located at C/Fossos, número 12, in Figueres. If you’re going to Figueres to see the Dalí museum, leave ample time to visit with Sra. Margarida and Sr. Padrosa and their delightful museum of objectes de la técnica. It’s certainly worth two euros.
Get there around 4:30 – that’s Spanish time for 4:00.
I want one of those Vespas.
LikeLike
Cuz Louise: The Vespa closest to the camera is from the 1950s. Look carefully at you’ll see that the headlight is on the front fender. In 1953, they moved it to the handlebars. This implies that the “old” Vespa is at least 50 years old. You may want one of the later models.
LikeLike
Make that 60, but what’s wrong with that? Louise L’s favorite ride is 69 years old.
LikeLike
What I liked most : “slithered up to the curb.”
LikeLike
Katharine: I pondered that verb. Considered “whispered.” But that little car (a Mitsubishi i-MiEV) made no sound whatsoever as it mounted the sidewalk. I stuck with “slither” because of its silent, snake-like stealth.
LikeLike
Spanish time ? There no time in Spain except manana !!
Marie-Pierre
LikeLike
Mapi: Agreed. There’s always mañana.
LikeLike
You’ve paid the reduced entrance-fee for senior citizens.
If I’m not mistaken, you have been received by the second generation of http://www.padrosa.com/en/ Mr. Padrosa’s father (the oldest Vespa with the headlight on the fender) founded the company 90 years ago.
LikeLike
Right you are, Gerard: the normal entrance fee was three euros. A bargain still. As for the headlight, see above. And thanks for the link. An interesting family.
LikeLike
Tom, I love these quirky collections. Most people don’t know that the popular TV show “Hoarders” is produced aspiring museum owners. BTW, a steam powered fan? Do I need to point out the obvious: fan=cool & steam=hot. ~James
LikeLike
James: You caught that fallacy! The exhaust stack for the boiler is directly behind the fan itself. Perhaps it’s meant to be a room heater! Still, I would love to hear it: it’s a little single-cylinder steam engine. :::chug chug::::
LikeLike