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costa brava photo

We love our hosts! Vicens and Jeanette own the apartment we’re renting in Girona. They have provided us with an astounding place to live (remind me someday to tell you about the hot tub that shoots fountains in the air), and yesterday – quite to our surprise – they offered to take us on a drive to the Costa Brava, the “rugged coast” of northeastern Spain. Thirteen hours of unremitting wonder!

Here’s the medieval town of Pals, renowned for its ancient towers and cobblestone streets, all fully restored. Click or tap any picture to enlarge.

photo of Pals, Spain

Pals: a thousand years old and ready to serve up some tapas.

Pals is also home to acres of ceramics – jars and jugs and lamps and vases:

photo of ceramics

Jeanette, Vicens, and Louise in a subterranean ceramic showroom

photo of wine kegs

Bring your own bottle (preferably ceramic) if you want to buy wine in Pals

photo of streetlight in Pals

“Streetlight” in Pals: fill with wood; light at dusk

Begur has 4,000 year-round residents. In the mid-summer, it swells to 40,000. Only the original 4,000 were there when we visited:

The beach at Begur

The shoreline at Begur. This is why they call it the Costa Brava (rugged coast).

photo of tom on beach

Not all Begur beaches are brava. This one offers newly-manicured sand.

We had lunch at Hotel Trias in the port town of Palamos:


Vincens, Jeanette, Louise, and Tom at lunch in Palamos.

Calella was our last stop, where we stirred up some craemat, made with rum, triple sec, cinnamon, lemon, and coffee, all set afire, stirred for exactly twelve minutes and consumed – slowly – over good (and broken, in four languages) conversation.

Downtown Calella

Downtown Calella

Vicens stirs our cremat

Vicens stirs our cremat

It was after dark when we headed home; a light rain required umbrellas.

Vicens & Jeanette walk in the rain

Vicens & Jeanette walk home in the rain

¡Muchas gracias, Vincens and Jeanette, para el día muy romántico!