To be in Paris for a month with no plans is something like gazing over a 26,000-acre box of chocolates. You won’t get to them all, but no matter where you start and where you go, it’s going to be delicious.
We’ll admit our first few days were more about sleep, eat, sneeze, nap, eat, and sleep again, dodging some serious raindrops between neighborhood restaurants. But finally as soon as the calendar flipped to April, the sun came out and so did we.
Tom declared the first adventure to be: the Tuileries Gardens. More a park than a garden, the Tuileries (named after the tile-making shops that used to be there—in Old French, tieule means “tile”) was first laid out by Catherine de Medici in 1564 when she moved to the Louvre palace with her son, the new king Henry II. As the years rolled on, a series of rulers redesigned the front yard, needless to say.
There are hedges and follies, ponds and statues of naked gods and goddesses. Napoleon planted a little Triumphal Arch there to celebrate his victory at Austerlitz, and also his wonderful self in general. The newest addition is the giant Roue de Paris, a Ferris wheel 200 feet in diameter, built in the year 2000 for the millennial celebration.
We paid our ten-euro fare and got into a glass carriage with a mother and daughter from London. Though the height of the thing looked terrifying from the ground, the snail pace of the turning wheel made it all easy. The view of the city from there was prime. We were still lower than the Eiffel Tower, but face-to-face with Sacre-Coeur in Montmartre. The full symmetry of the Tuileries unrolled before us on one side, and on the other, the length of the Champs Élysées (see the lead photo for this post).
I did not know at the time that the 365-ton wheel is portable, and is grounded by gigantic tanks of water, not a series of concrete pillars. It didn’t spring a leak. We survived.
We found the day had warmed a bit more, and Parisians were beginning to flood the park. We walked back through the garden, and had lunch at a park cafe, where each table was equipped with a red blanket to ward off any remaining March chill.
And we engaged in our favorite sport: watching the chic Parisians in their scarves and high heeled boots, their big-patterned coats, and their muted colors which always blend seamlessly. Passels of school children on field trips, wearing matching flouresent backpacks and holding hands.
Mothers with strollers paused for a coffee, and beautiful middle-aged women exchanged gossip over cigarettes and wine. Old men talked politics. Young couples made a beer last forever, while holding hands and teasing. It was Friday afternoon, and there was that Friday-afternoon feeling, a kind of sweet, slow buildup to le weekend.
It was all essential Paris. Though we have sat at outdoor cafes around Europe and America, there is not and cannot be anything like this. It’s so good to be here!
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Linda Verbeke said:
Ah – your writing brings me there and lets me see and feel everything (although I have never been to Paris). Thank you for the experiences.
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Louise said:
Many thanks, Linda! I’m glad you can feel the vibe Parisienne!
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shipwreck said:
And Adolph wanted to burn it to the ground.
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Louise said:
Very bad.
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Robin Lawson said:
LOVED the picture, the descriptions , the feelings…all so true to the beauty of Paris. Tom looks like he fit right in. No one would suspect he was an Oregonian. So glad you are enjoying it all. I am enjoying with you. Thank you for these wonderful posts. Looking forward to more.
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Richard Lague said:
Have a great time guys…..I am jealous….and Louise can practice here french all day. Don’t wear white or brightly colored athletic shoes that will brand you as a tourist because you won’t be able to get into the lobbies of those swanky hotels unless you have muted leather shoes……ask me how I know.
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Louise said:
Loved that comment about Tom. Now I tell him everyday that no one would suspect he is an Oregonian. It’s a good thing YOU are an Oregonian, so you can get away with it!
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Louise said:
How do you know? Big surprise: white athletic shoes are quite the style here. Brightly colored as well. You were just a man ahead of your time….
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Mike B said:
I love your writings and pictures of Paris. I’ve been twice and would move there at the drop of a hat if the wife would go with me. Where do you stay that is affordable for a month? Are you doing an Air BnN?
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Louise said:
Yes! Many are reasonable and more so for a long stay. We like to use the Venere service in Europe. Hope you can budge the wife!
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B said:
Such a beautiful post…. A gifted writer you are.
Enjoy enjoy
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Louise said:
This place is just a tad inspirational! Many thanks, B.
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Chris Flavin said:
What a delightful essay, Louise. I’m happy for you that you are able to resume your affair with Paris. Thanks for bringing back the memories.
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Louise said:
What’s wonderful is that it’s not that different from when you and I were here. Except for the cellphones.
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Rick said:
Gosh it’s been nearly 20 years since I’ve been to Paris. Way too long.You bring back so many great memories. It is the ultimate in civilized cities.
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Louise said:
You are so right. As an adult, I can appreciate the lifestyle: the grace, the trust, the beauty, and all the kissing.
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Anita Blanchard said:
Wonderfully lyrical post.
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Louise said:
Thank you Anita. I have amazing inspiration here.
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Charlotte Hoather said:
I love Paris in Spring – you look to be having a great time.
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Tom said:
It’s the song that got us here at this time of the year. Could you come to Paris and sing it for us? “April in Paris…” For the rest of you, you’re in for a real treat when you visit https://charlottehoatherblog.com
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Bernie said:
Toujours Paris!
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