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At the turn of the century (1900), Bare Mountain (Muntanya Pelada) overlooking Barcelona seemed like an ideal place for a housing development. It was high enough to offer air clear of the soot from Barcelona’s industry, it sported a panoramic view of the city, and its height almost guaranteed exclusivity for the Spanish elite. Count Eusebi Güell – an industrial entrepreneur who profited greatly from the industry from which Bare Mountain offered a respite – platted sixty huge triangular lots, hired the Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí, built a model home, and sat back, waiting for orders. None came.
Why? Well, Gaudí’s architecture wasn’t universally admired by the elite back in the early 1900s. Eventually Gaudí bought the model home (the only sale!), moved in, and began construction of a forty-acre municipal park in place of the housing development. The park was completed in 1914 and it’s just as wacky as any of Gaudí’s other constructions, all of which resemble something Walt Disney might have built after too many drinks with Micky and Goofy.
Park Güell still stands today, atop Bare Mountain overlooking Barcelona, and if you take the Metro there as we did, a sweaty hike to the top of the mountain is required. Sybil, Louise, and I arrived at the entrance to the park bone-weary and confounded by the crowds and the architecture. It’s a bit like touring a wax museum or negotiating a New York subway: boisterous, bizarre, and baroque.
Reportedly Gaudí once said to Güell, “Sometimes I think we are the only people who like this architecture.” Güell replied, “I don’t like your architecture; I respect it.”
mapi said:
I personnaly love Gaudi architecture. It’s so unique and baroque and what would
become of Barcelona without the unfinished Gaudi’s church The Segrada Familia ?
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Tom said:
Well, Mapi, you’re not alone. The crowds of admirers were so thick that there simply wasn’t time for us to visit the Segrada Familia. It’s on our list, and we do hope to return to Barcelona.
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dot said:
It truly was incredible!
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Louise said:
And more than that, dear Dotter, I thought it was beautiful! The more cracked up colorful plates and tiles the better, I think. Thanks for climbing the hill with us!
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Linda said:
Hahahaha! Love this post Tom — but you CANNOT put the names of Gaudi and Disney together (she said)! I have always loved Gaudi’s architecture — so alive and human. Someday I would like to take a tour of his works.
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Tom said:
Okay, okay. My apologies to all those I’ve offended. Maybe I shouldn’t have mentioned Disney, but was Goofy okay?
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mybarcelona said:
Reblogged this on mydiagonal.
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kathy casey said:
I’m going to have nightmares about the salamander climbing out of the bathtub in the middle of the night and coming to get me. Bernie better have a huge club on his night stand to clobber that scary beast..
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Tom said:
Kathy, that salamander is the most popular sculpture in the garden. People mob him to have their photographs taken with him. None have been harmed to our knowledge. Do not bring a huge club, just a couple of small flies.
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Loca Gringa said:
I love Gaudi’s works. It’s so sad to think his name has become a negative term.
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Tom said:
Gringa, I believe things have changed. I agree: Gaudi was vilified in the 1930s, but by the 1950s his work had begun to receive some of the most respected praise in architecture, including the 1984 listing of his key works as UNESCO World Heritage Sites (including the Park Güell). His beatification was approved by the Vatican in 2000. I often write with a flippant tone, but that doesn’t mean I disparage my subjects.
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Loca Gringa said:
I had not thought you to be flippant. But I was thinking in terms of fashion/architecture more than anything. Had no idea that he was beatified! Very interesting.
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